Tikitouring in a fabulous part of the world: Page 10

 

Richard Moore's article continues ...

The first stop was Hell’s Point, a sealed off area littered with unexploded ordnance from the war. But, they had some Japanese tanks and so we snuck in to get some pictures – only to be yelled at by a rightly grumpy policeman who asked if we had not seen the massive sign saying “No Entry.”

Still, we got the shots …

Then it was on to Alligator Creek, the site of the battle of the Tenaru River where US Marines held off a huge Japanese attack.

It was a bloody affair with more than 800 Japanese being killed.

The battle features in the first episode of the TV miniseries The Pacific.

Next stop was Beach Red where the Allied forces first landed on Guadalcanal.

There’s not much to see other than the occasional wire cord sticking out of the sand.

The same can’t be said of Tetere War Museum where scores of Amtracks – amphibious landing vehicles are standing about.

The museum is owned by Samwell Basoe who is a relative of Sir Jacob Vouza, a famous local war hero who survived torture by the Japanese to warn the Americans of the imminent attack at Alligator Creek.

It is fascinating looking at the rusting vehicles and many are being claimed by nature with trees growing out of them.

One thing I learned on the islands is that the guides generally know what they are talking about and, for military history buffs, you can pick up a lot of information from a source very different to the history books.

If you are after five-star service then the Solomons are not for you.

There are few major comforts, litter is a problem and it isn’t easy getting to places.

However, if you want to get away from it all, feast on fabulously fresh seafood, snorkel or dive in stunning lagoons, come face to face with the remnants of the Pacific War, meet wonderfully warm people or just try something completely different then the Solomon Islands is a place you really should consider.

I loved the place and my six days there was definitely not enough.

Another week would have been about right, although I think I would then be even more difficult to leave the place.

To all the islanders we met I want to say “tank iu tomas.”

Thank you very much.

- Richard Moore