After
The Apostles I reckon Loch Ard Gorge is the place to visit when
you are in the area.
It
is a lovely little cove, terrific for spending a summer's day on
its sheltered sands and cooling off in its waters, but it also has
a dark past.
The
Loch Ard was a sailing ship that came to grief on the rocks near
Muttonbird Island, just outside the entrance to the gorge, and all
but two of its 54 crew and passengers died in the storm.
The
survivors - cabinboy Tom Pearce and Irish woman Eva Carmichael,
both 18, - took shelter in one of the gorge's caves. Pearce had
heard her cries and braved the heavy seas to rescue her from the
spar she was clinging to.
Pearce
eventually made his way up the cliffs and went to get help at a
nearby homestead. Eva was rescued and then returned to Ireland.
Tom was awarded first bravery medal by the Victorian Government.
He stayed at sea, which was to prove cruel to him as it later claiming
two of his three sons in shipwrecks. He himself survived another
sinking.
As
a matter of interest the wreckage and cargo that washed up from
the Loch Ard covered the beach in the gorge to a depth of two metres.
Around
Loch Ard Gorge there are a number of other natural sights - magnificent
limestone structures such as the Island Arch, Muttonbird Island,
Thunder Cave and Broken Head.
And
trust me it is well worth walking down to overlook the ocean near
Sherbrooke River where waves of stunning power roll into the shore.
We
stood there for quite a while amazed at how large and fast they
were. I've not seen such waves before.
Parks
Victoria seem to have done alot of work near Loch Ard Gorge since
the last time I wa there in the mid-2000s and the pathways are terrific.
They are good to walk on, allow you to keep to safe areas and lead
you directly to great scenic views.
One
place that is not scenic, but moving, is the Loch Ard cemetery.
At
the cemetery there are three poignant markers to those who died
in the disaster.
A
large memorial to the Carmichaels, Eva family, a smaller one to
the Arthur Mitchell and Reginald Jones and a general plaque naming
all the victims.
On
a visit in May 2013 I have to say the mob looking after the site
are pretty woeful as the graves are overrun and needy tidying -
both for those of the Loch Ard and the early pioneers also buried
there.
Lift
your game Parks Victoria.
And, while we are having a little moan, what is with the Kiosk at
The Apostles?
You
could buy a coffee there - and souvenirs if you wanted - but there
were no tables to sit at and no brochures about what to see in the
area.
But
if you are travelling through and die from lack of food or getting
lost you can blame the local council and the folk of Port Campbell
who, it is said, whinged and bleated and fought to stop those traveller-friendly
services being set up at the Apostles Kiosk.
Seems
they thought having a proper little eatery and tourist centre would
stop tourists travelling on another 12km to spend money in their
town.